The Language Of Materials: Velvet

At Pooky, we’re a little obsessed with materials. We spend an inordinate amount of time seeking out the very best of them. Feeling, testing and experimenting, and asking: what can this material do that others can’t?

In this series, The Language of Materials, we take a closer look at the substances that shape the things we make, exploring their origins, their qualities and the long traditions of craft behind them.

Here’s a look at the rich history and enduring appeal of velvet…

Is there any fabric more seductive than velvet? It’s beautifully tactile, shimmers in the light, and deepens in colour in shadow. So often a first choice for regal trains, haute couture, theatre curtains and tempting sofas, it is little wonder that designers and upholsterers have always loved its luminosity and rich, soft pile. 

Velvet is sumptuous, and truly scrumptious. It can transform a room, even with the seemingly simple addition of a lampshade. Pooky’s velvet lampshade range may not be our largest, but it is rather special and offers ample proof that small can be very beautiful indeed…


Velvet, a regal fabric

Only the best for Lucas Cranach the Elder’s portrait of a young woman, often thought to be Mary Magdalene, who wears a velvet dress and gold jewellery.
Only the best for Lucas Cranach the Elder’s portrait of a young woman, often thought to be Mary Magdalene, who wears a velvet dress and gold jewellery. Image: creative commons


No one is quite sure when and where velvet originated, although we do know that piled textiles, the forerunners of velvet, were being produced in the ancient world. But it seems likely that silk velvet, the finest form of the fabric, originated in China; Kashmiri merchants brought it to Baghdad in the late 700s, and by the second half of the 13th century velvet was being woven in Europe. 

The city states of Venice, Florence and Genoa became the leading centres for silk velvet production; all excelled in creating exquisite, highly sophisticated fabrics. Spain rapidly followed suit, and before long Italian and Spanish velvet was being exported across Europe, becoming one of the most sought-after fabrics available at the time.

Voided and brocaded silk velvet panel, with metal-wrapped thread loops, Italy, 1450-1499.
Voided and brocaded silk velvet panel, with metal-wrapped thread loops, Italy, 1450-1499. Image source: Metropolitan Museum, NYC. 


The weaving process is complex: a double cloth loom simultaneously produces two layers of fabric, which are then cut with a vertical knife to separate the pieces. It is this cut that produces velvet’s unique pile or nap, giving it that distinctive soft texture. It’s a process that requires far more thread than many other fabrics, which helps explain why the finest velvets have always been so expensive. 

While silk velvet sits at the top of the fabric’s hierarchy, velvet can also be made from cotton or wool, producing stronger, more hard-wearing fabrics that are ideal for curtains or upholstery. Today’s variations include synthetic velvets made from fibres such as nylon, polyester or rayon, which tend to be cheaper and easier to clean. Add a touch of spandex, such as Lycra, and you get stretch velvet.

Historically, velvet was all about making an impression: for court dress, for ecclesiastical robes and for ceremonial furnishings. 

Ceremonial attire in red silk velvet for the Commander Grand Cross of the Swedish Order of the Polar Star (1820 CE onwards), the Royal Armoury, Stockholm.
Ceremonial attire in red silk velvet for the Commander Grand Cross of the Swedish Order of the Polar Star (1820 CE onwards), the Royal Armoury, Stockholm. Image: creative commons


And velvet hangings turned out to be first-class at keeping out draughts in chilly stone-built palaces. Tudor monarchs could not get enough of these hangings, importing Tuscan-produced velvet at vast expense, not simply for its practical benefits, but also for its ability to transform monochrome spaces with rich colour, grandeur and pattern.


A decorative favourite for centuries

The mediaeval and Renaissance love affair with velvet continued throughout the Baroque and Rococo design periods, and was carried into the Georgian and Victorian eras. As we have seen with other materials, industrialisation and mechanisation boosted textile production, which meant lower prices. Mass-produced velvet was affordable and found its way into many Victorian homes, as it worked so well in layered interiors or set against dark wood.

The Green Velvet Bedroom, Hardwick Hall, Derbyshire.
The Green Velvet Bedroom, Hardwick Hall, Derbyshire. Photo: Jeff Buck


Velvet was a desirable upholstery fabric, a natural partner for gilt furniture, and made dramatic, impress-your-friends curtains. (Perfect for those much-loved Victorian home theatricals.) It was even used for wallpaper, and flock wallpaper, its much cheaper, non-velvet lookalike, enabled budget-conscious homeowners to give their walls a sophisticated look without breaking the bank. Our old friend, William Morris, drew inspiration for some of his textiles from historic Flemish velvets.

Transitioning from Victorian and Arts and Crafts maximalism to the precise geometry of Art Deco might have presented a challenge to velvet, but Art Deco was all about unashamed luxury. Velvet was frequently used to upholster clean-cut chairs or banquettes, providing just the right contrast to the brass, glass and lacquer favoured by the period. In the 1930s and ‘40s (wartime restrictions notwithstanding), velvet’s ability to both absorb and reflect light meant that it was in demand for theatre and cinema interiors as well as glamorous hotels, providing a warm, soft contrast to glass, marble or metal.

Velvet in abundance: Art Deco interior by Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann.
Velvet in abundance: Art Deco interior by Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann. Image: creative commons


For example, the colour palette for the touch-of-Hollywood ladies’ powder room at Oscar Deutsch’s 1937 Leicester Square Odeon was pale gold. The seating, dressing table stools and armchairs, was upholstered in pale gold velvet and partnered with pale gold damask curtains. (Those particular features are long gone, sadly, but read about the Odeon’s design history here.) 

Velvet remains a favourite with many of today’s interior designers and decorators, although it is now used more sparingly, perhaps in the form of a velvet sofa, a velvet-covered cushion or two, or a velvet throw. Velvet can always be relied upon to bring a welcome touch of warmth, a touch of sophistication and luxury, even to the simplest of interiors.


The perennial appeal of the velvet lampshade

At Pooky, we know that there is a lampshade for every space, for every function, for every taste. And our velvet lampshades have some pretty special qualities… 

They are tactile and decorative, casting a soft, diffused light that helps create a warm and inviting atmosphere, along with a touch of drama. Perfect for unforgettable evenings. And that softly diffused light makes a velvet lampshade a natural choice for bedside tables too.

Top a ceramic or marble base with a richly coloured empire shade, such as our straight empire in scarlet silk velvet (only the best for Pooky customers). This rich colour would work its magic beautifully when strategically placed in a dining room. A true feast for the eyes.

Straight empire shade in scarlet silk velvet
Rich, red and rather ravishing: Straight empire shade in scarlet silk velvet


All our velvet shades come in a choice of three jewel-like colours: scarlet as above, as well as royal blue and emerald. Our straight empire in royal blue has an almost decadent quality, but in the best possible taste, thanks in part to its gold silk lining. Featuring perfectly pleated folds and rich, inky tones, it hovers between midnight and majesty, offering a luxurious way to wind down at the end of the day.

Our emerald empire shade, which is also lined with gold silk, is as soft as a whisper and as enticing as a forest by midnight: elegant by day and opulent by night. This self-transforming quality makes it a versatile choice. It would work well, for example, on a hall or landing table.

This striking emerald empire shade pairs rich velvet with a gold silk lining for a little extra drama
This striking emerald empire shade pairs rich velvet with a gold silk lining for a little extra drama


Choose your favourite from our complete range of velvet lampshades. (Tip: you don’t need to limit yourself to one… Velvet lampshades work brilliantly in pairs; the best sort of double act.)

If you’re looking for the merest hint of velvet, do take a look at the silk and linen lampshades in our Morris & Co collection, all trimmed with accent velvet tape. A nice touch…


It’s all in the details: Scalloped empire shade in claret & gold silk snakeshead by Morris & Co, finished with accent velvet tape


If you find velvet as fascinating as we do, it’s worth tracking down a copy of Velvet: History, Techniques, Fashions, edited by Fabrizio de’ Marinis (1994), which tells the extraordinary story of this gorgeous fabric through fashion, furnishings, art and design.

See also:

The Language of Materials: Cotton

The Language of Materials: Brass

The Language of Materials: Paper

The Language of Materials: Rattan and cane

The Language of Materials: Linen

The Language of Materials: Glass

The Language of Materials: Silk