How a simple fold of fabric became a design classic, from ancient drapery to the pleated lampshades we love today…
We’ll likely never know who in Ancient Egypt had the idea of taking a piece of linen and pleating it. Whoever it was, they could not possibly have imagined that their innovative approach to adding shape and structure to materials would endure for four thousand years. From clothing to furnishing fabrics, pleats have never gone out of fashion; the lines they form have even been borrowed by architects and builders – think fluted columns and corrugated iron roofs – for definition and function.
Lampshades and pleats are natural partners, of course, which is why there are so many pleated – or gathered – lampshades to choose from at Pooky. We have been finding out about the history and enduring appeal of pleats and pleating, and the many ways that pleats can add a very pleasing touch to our homes.
Pleats and gathers…
Let’s start with a definition: after all, that’s what pleating is all about. Think of pleats as a structured form of gathers. Both add fullness, but the latter are soft and don’t need to be absolutely precise, although they do need to be neat (as The Great British Sewing Bee’s Esme Young always hastens to point out). But with pleats, it is all about precision, irrespective of the type of pleat: knife, box, inverted, accordion, sunburst, pinch, kick, and cartridge, for example, as well as the tiny pleats that make up pin tucks.
A brief history of pleats
Back in 2000BC our unknown pleating innovator gave themselves quite a task, which involved hand-folding linen and then setting the pleats with a stiffening agent, such as egg whites. This labour-intensive process meant that pleated fabrics used for clothing, and possibly as decorative textiles in the home, were the preserve of Ancient Egyptian royalty and high society. The Greeks and Romans were similarly fond of pleats, which were a key feature of the drapes and folds of chitons and togas. The fullness that pleats added allowed for movement, while their structure created elegant silhouettes.
And, as in fashion, so in furnishings. Did you know that today’s Roman blinds really did originate in ancient Rome? They began life as damp cloths hung over windows – to block dust during the decade-long construction of the Colosseum, and to cool homes during the city’s long, hot summers.
It was the invention of the pleating iron that boosted the popularity of pleats in the Middle Ages and European Renaissance. These specialist irons enabled pleating to become even more structured, intricate and durable. Pleated ruffs and collars became status symbols and the fashion for more complex textiles inspired similarly sumptuous interior furnishings and design elements.
However, it was not until the 18th and 19th centuries that pleating began to appear more formally in curtains, blinds and upholstery. As in the Renaissance, furnishings followed dress fashions, and box and knife pleats were used in wealthier homes to create a sense of fullness, often seen in valances – furniture skirts – which were used for beds and sofas.
At the same time, industrial technologies were transforming textile production, including pre-pleated fabrics. Rufflette pre-gathered tape first appeared in the 1920s and simplified the production of pencil pleats for curtains. By the mid-20th century, synthetic fabrics were creating a revolution in pleating. New materials, such as polyester, could be heat-set to produce permanent, wrinkle-free pleats, making them an attractive and affordable choice for curtains and blinds. In Germany, pleated blinds were developed as an effective form of sun protection.
Now, in the 21st century, pleats remain popular for curtains, using pinch, box and pencil pleats. Pleats are versatile too; they can be adapted to suit many interior design styles, from maximalist to minimalist, English country house to Japandi, with fabrics ranging from colourful and richly patterned to plain neutrals.
We have always been intrigued by the way pleating has travelled from fashion to furnishings but has also echoed the zeitgeist. Fortuny’s pleated silk dresses, which were inspired by Ancient Greek designs, not only looked fabulous but reflected the newfound social freedoms of the early 1900s.
Towards the end of the century, Issey Miyake’s sculptural pleats would transform fashion design. His approach is often described as “architectural” and he worked closely with architects, such as Tadao Ando and Frank Gehry (who designed Miyake’s Manhattan store), and interior designers, including Shiro Kuramata, who created many of Miyake’s store interiors. Between them, they were rewriting the design handbook – and pleats were right there at the heart of that process.
Pooky’s pleasing pleats
We love pleats at Pooky… so much so that we have hundreds of pleated lampshades, in a range of materials, colors, sizes, shapes and patterns. So, we’re pretty sure that we have a pleated lampshade to please you.
If you are looking for a soft, romantic lighting effect, in a living room or bedroom, opt for fine silk pleats, such as our Sand empire shade crafted from Indian silk.
To bring structure to modern spaces, you might want to go for crisp cotton or linen pleats: our Smog linen shade would be a great choice.
For a maximalist look, pair a bold, ceramic base such as our Gingembre table lamp with a red gathered shade, mixing pattern and color.
Or go for contrast, topping a brass or glass base with a dark pleated shade, for definition and a touch of luxury. Take a look at Katherine, a small, clear blown glass base, topped with an empire shade in pleated cobalt silk, with matching velvet tape.
Pleated shades soften light and tend to diffuse it evenly. For more brightness, choose lighter fabrics or open pleats. Darker, denser fabrics create rich, moody light.
Many of our pleated lampshades have a reversible gimbal, so you can use them with table lamps or as ceiling pendant lampshades.
Browse Pooky’s complete range of pleated lampshades here.
Recommended reading: look out for Complete Pleats by Paul Jackson, possibly the most comprehensive book about pleating that we know; it includes 60 examples of pleats from the world of architecture, design and fashion.
